Ray J's is just what Woodbury needs

BY KATHIE JENKINS

Restaurant Critic

When you walk into Ray J's in Woodbury, you could be forgiven for thinking you've wandered into Awada's. The space has that familiar rustic look, with high booths and lots of stone and pine. But once you taste the food, you get a different picture.

Mark and Paul Jacob, who also run Arone's in Minneapolis and Schullers in Golden Valley, took over the spot near Interstate 94 and Woodbury Drive and renamed it after their father. To prove their commitment, they changed the menu, putting their own spin on grill favorites.

From what we tried, the food looks promising. In fact, Ray J's deep-fried jumbo chicken wings are definitely a contender for best in the Twin Cities. The hot turkey sandwich is also terrific, and so is the grilled chicken breast on pita with house-made garlic sauce. Other offerings include burgers, pan-fried dumplings, chopped salad, walleye and steak.

If this something-for-everyone menu sometimes takes liberties with the international offerings — the three-cheese "Naples-style" pizza is a crackerlike crust topped with mozzarella, parmesan and cheddar — at least, everything's fresh, portions are huge and the service snappy. Besides, there is not anything like it in Woodbury, and Ray J's is sure to be packed at lunch and dinner.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants. Pioneer Press restaurant critic Kathie Jenkins can be reached at 651-228-5585 or jenkins@pioneerpress.com.

Ray J's American Grill, 9854 Norma Lane, Woodbury; 651-714-2035. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Prices, $5 to $23.